Back to the Jazz Age

"Let us keep up the rules that flapperism is composed of--bobbed hair, short skirts and low-heeled shoes, giving the body plenty of room to expand itself and that free and easy swing that only a short skirt can afford. What do you say flappers?"
       -Excerpt from a letter published in The Flapper magazine (1922) written by a Chicago flapper

Photograph of
my grandma in 1926

Jazz music, dancing, speakeasies, gansters, and, of course, flappers were all part of the twenties underground scene. The flapper emerged as the new, fancy-free woman of the decade with a carefree attitude and flare for style. She didn't care about the societal rules imposed on women and still kept her femininity while keeping up with the men. Flappers became such a sensation that there was even a magazine devoted to them called The Flapper, which embraced the same free spirit outlook as its readers and included the byline, "Not for Old Fogies." When Paris fashion tried to "impose" the long skirt on America in 1922, The Flapper was outraged and included the following at the end of an article titled, "Flappers Protest Dictation From Paris."

     Any flapper reader of The Flapper magazine may fill out the following blank and mail it in as a token of her stand on Parisian dictation of styles. No names will be used; our only concern is to arrive at an accurate gauge of flapper opinion. Results of this referendum will be published in the November issue.
.............................................................................................................
The Flapper, 604 Ogden Bldg., Chicago, Ill.
     Gentlemen: This is how I stand on continuation of present-day
styles. I am marking my preference with an X.

                                                    For      Against

          Bobbed Hair              ____      ____
          Rolled Sox                 ____      ____
          Short Skirts               ____      ____
          Knickers                    ____      ____
          Low-heeled Shoes    ____      ____
          Corsets                     ____      ____
Name............................................. Age.............
Street Address............................ City.............

Photograph of
my grandma in the 1920s

By the twenties, women were tired of wearing uncomfortable, stuffy clothing and were ready for a change. The loose fitting, drop-waist dresses became a staple in every flapper's wardrobe. Jeanne Lanvin and Coco Chanel were two influential fashion designers at the time that kept the "new breed" of women happy.

With the Great Gatsby remake to be released in December and Gucci, Marchesa, Ralph Lauren, and Alberta Ferretti, just to name a few, all sending twenties-inspired looks down the runway, this will be the year to celebrate flapper fashion. High-end designer dresses this spring will feature drop-waists, feathers, fringe, pleats, soft silks, and beading. One of the only fashion houses to not partake in this resurgence is Alexander McQueen. When recently asked about the up and coming trend, creative director Sarah Burton commented, "We’re not a house to do a dropped waist."

Fashion designers may be bringing the twenties back to the runway, but the Dave Stephens Band is bringing it to the stage. Kansas City became a famous jazz hub during the Jazz Age and the Dave Stephens Band is keeping it alive today by performing vintage delights such as Alexander's Ragtime Band, Puttin' on the Ritz, and Runnin' Wild. Their energetic, live shows take you back in time to a night in a past decade. The intimate experience feels so authentic that you half expect the police to burst through the doors like a speakeasy raid on the grounds that the crowd is having a little too much fun. The New York Times described Dave Stephens as "a jazz singer and songwriter based in Los Angeles whose perpetual smile, expansive gestures and habit of breaking into song unprovoked make him seem like a Broadway musical character." Cue the curtain!

 I made a twenties-inspired dress this week and used a beautiful Marc Jacobs crepe de chine I purchased from Mood. It was my first time to work with a silk/lycra blend and it wasn't easy! It's similar to the dress I made last week . . . just a bit dressier.

MADE IN KANSAS

Only Some Liked It Hot

"Running wild, lost control. Running wild, mighty bold. Feeling gay, reckless too, carefree mind all the time, never blue. Always going, don't know where, always showing...I don't care! Don't love nobody, it's not worthwhile. All alone, running wild!"

                    -Marilyn Monroe as Sugar Kane singing Runnin' Wild in Some Like It Hot

Chicago gangsters and two struggling musicians in the wrong place at the wrong time in 1929 set the scene for the movie Some Like It Hot starring Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis, and Jack Lemmon. The film was released in 1959 and got some heat for its scandalous content and risque dresses worn by Marilyn. They were slinky, twenties-style designs, yet quite provocative for the time. Ironically, Some Like It Hot's Orry-Kelly won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design (Black-and-White). Upon initial release, the movie was actually banned in Kansas due to a steamy scene between Curtis and Monroe that took place on a yacht. It was also stated that cross-dressing was "too disturbing for Kansans." It was the only state to ban the film. Being one of my favorite classics, I saw the play, Some Like It Hot, in Kansas City starring Tony Curtis in 2002. That time around, however, he played the older character, Osgood Fielding III. Those who originally banned the movie in 1959 would not have approved. 

Among Marilyn's many shortfalls while starring in this particular film was that it took her 47 takes just to get the line "It's me, Sugar," right. She also insisted the movie be produced in color, but the make-up Curtis and Lemmon wore cast an odd green tint on their faces. In the end, director Billy Wilder was able to convince Marilyn it had to be shot in black and white. When asked what it was like working with Marilyn, Wilder replied, "We were in mid-flight, and there was a nut on the plane." But, as the final line of Some Like It Hot says, "Well, nobody's perfect."

The majority of Some Like It Hot was filmed at the famous Hotel Del Coronado in San Diego, CA. Color photographs taken on set can be seen in the corridors of the hotel that lead to the beach. A box office hit in 1959, Some Like It Hot is still popular today and was listed by the American Film Institute as the funniest movie in American cinema.

I chose to create my own version of one of the more modest dresses (I am in Kansas, after all!) Marilyn wore as Sugar Kane in Some Like It Hot. It was set in the twenties when drop-waists were the rage, so I included that feature in my design. The dress is simple, yet chic.

MADE IN KANSAS

The Year for Princess Chic

"Fashion is made to become unfashionable."
                               -Coco Chanel

The defining look for 2012 can be described in one word: femininity. A departure from some of the edgier designs seen in past seasons, the months ahead will bring a wide range of pastel colors, pretty silhouettes, and a myriad of romantic floral prints. Prada's spring designs feature lace, pleated skirts, and soft hues. "Sweetness," was Miuccia Prada's summation of her new collection. Stylist Nikki Pennie referred to the new trend as "princess chic." It will certainly be THE year to get dolled up.

1920s fashions are also making a comeback this spring. Gucci's collection includes several variations of flapper-style, drop-waist dresses complete with fringe. One trend from 2011 that will carry on into the new year is color-blocking. It remains a favorite among designers such as Max Azria for BCBG. A feminine vibe will even make its way to footwear with ladylike, ultra-skinny stilettos soon to fill up shoe departments. Stephanie Solomon, head buyer for Bloomingdale's, said, "We will also see pretty pumps. It is no longer aggressive combat boots or thick-soled wedges. Everything will be much more delicate -- ladylike structures and in color." Solomon then encapsulated the trend for 2012 by saying, "It is a totally feminine look that we haven't seen in years."

The lace dress I made in 2011 was one of my favorites. I decided to design another one, but this time I chose a colorful, floral lace. It is very fitting after writing about the shift toward feminine silhouettes in 2012. I would normally take a photo of the dress on my form to post, but it did not do it justice.

Happy New Year!  










MADE IN KANSAS

A Royal Christmas

“What is it you want, Mary? What do you want? You want the moon? Just say the word and I’ll throw a lasso around it and pull it down. Hey. That’s a pretty good idea. I’ll give you the moon, Mary."

                                                                        -George Bailey, It's A Wonderful Life

All eyes will be on Kate Middleton today as she joins Prince William's family and experiences her first Christmas with the Queen. Each year, the English royals spend the day at Sandringham, a private estate that has been owned by four generations of British monarchs since 1862, located in Norfolk. The Duchess of Cambridge, well-known for her impeccable taste in clothing and stunning Alexander McQueen selections, certainly did not pack light this Christmas. According to royal etiquette expert Jean Broke-Smith, “Kate will need a casual outfit for breakfast, a smart outfit and a hat for the morning church service, a dress for lunch, a cocktail dress for early evening drinks and a full-length dress for the evening meal.” No lounging around in pajamas for the newlyweds!

Queen Elizabeth loves keeping to tradition and this year will be no exception despite Prince Philip being in the hospital. Every year, the family exchanges gifts on Christmas Eve, attends a Christmas day service at St. Mary Magdalene Church on the Sandringham Estate, and partakes in a pheasant shoot on Boxing Day (a holiday celebrated the day after Christmas). The Queen's annual Christmas speech will be broadcast to the Commonwealth this afternoon.

As we celebrate Christmas, one of my favorite Bible verses from the book of Acts comes to mind, “It is more blessed to give than to receive." My mom is the most giving person. She spends more time doing things for others than for herself, which has made for an outstanding role model. I wanted to do something special for her this Christmas, so I spent the last couple of weeks sewing two tops and a jacket to give to her today.

Merry Christmas!

           








MADE IN KANSAS

Carousel in Paris

“I love to take things that are everyday and comforting and make them into the most luxurious things in the world."

                                                                       -Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton's Spring 2012 fashion show last October was magical. It took place in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum in Paris. Those fortunate enough to attend the event were seated around the runway wondering what was concealed behind the giant white curtain. The show began when the curtain rose and revealed a magnificent, customized merry-go-round with models perched side-saddle on white horses. First a cranking sound, and then music you'd expect to hear coming out of a Cinderella music box filled the air as the carousel sprung into action. The models gracefully dismounted their horses one-by-one and walked the runway. According to Marc Jacobs, creative director for Louis Vuitton, “There's a carousel in the Tuileries, and I'm a hopeless New York Francophile, and it's very Paris ... It's also a bit of a metaphor about this cycle of fashion and how it goes around and around, and regardless of what your references are, whatever you choose to look at, it's just cyclical."

The dresses were 60s-inspired and very feminine while featuring delicate intricacies that did not go unnoticed. Jacobs described his designs as “soft, soothing, gentle, light, tender, feminine, airy, loving." The pale colors complemented by white accents worked well with the laser cut fabrics. Kate Moss finished off the show looking stunning in a laser cut lace dress adorned with white feathers. Although Louis Vuitton's carousel show was not conventional, it will not be forgotten. The event can be seen in its entirety on YouTube.

Laser cutting and burnout are two similar applications that can be applied to textiles to give them a unique look. I purchased a cotton burnout jersey from Mood and used it for a top. The burned out parts of the fabric are sheer, so I lined it with a nude jersey. I made a gathered skirt to pair with the top and sewed black piping into the waistband. This wasn't the first time I've worked with a burnout textile. A top I posted a few months ago was a burnout knit.


MADE IN KANSAS

Posh

“A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous."
                                                 -Coco Chanel

Once referred to as Posh Spice, Victoria Beckham is now creating posh clothing. She and her family moved to Los Angeles several years ago, the ideal location to continue building her fashion empire. In 2008, the same year Victoria was the face of Marc Jacobs, her first fashion collection debuted at the Waldorf Astoria for New York Fashion Week and 400 dresses were produced. Clean lines and simple silhouettes keep her designs looking chic and sophisticated. Earlier this week, she won Designer Brand of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in London. Victoria once said, “If I set my mind to something I do it. My biggest wish for all of us is that we are happy, successful, and that we stay true to ourselves." In her book, That Extra Half an Inch: Hair, Heels and Everything in Between, she wrote, “I've always been the girl next door who got lucky." No kidding!

I gathered up my fabric scraps from the dress I made last week and had just enough for a skirt. I wanted it to be structured and interesting, so I cut a unique waistband. I paired it with a black top I made several weeks ago. The collar is scalloped along the top and outlined by a pleated ribbon with a tulle border. I prefer the all black look, but for the purpose of this blog post, I also made a simple top using a light pink fabric to better accentuate the architectural lines of the skirt's waist. The striking contrast of pale pink and stark black are a perfect combination of hard and soft.

MADE IN KANSAS