Temperley London Looks to Hitchcock's Muse

“Fashion changes, but style endures.”

                               -Coco Chanel

As always, February marks the beginning of fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris as designers unveil their fall looks. One of my all-time favorite collections was Temperley London. Each piece was designed to perfection and inspired by the style of Tippi Hedren, Alfred Hitchcock's muse and star of "The Birds." The collection was feminine, yet with a slight edge. Alice Temperley, who has admitted to being obsessed with the romance and glamour of old movies, said, "It's from a bygone era, but we all secretly want to look like that." Her high-waisted, full skirts, and tailored coats were cleverly styled with leather gloves, pointed-toe heels, and silk scarves. The show notes concluded by stating, “[Temperley's woman] today is an alpha female with a darker side but still luxuriously chic and ultra feminine, whose wish is to live life to the fullest.”

Another collection that caught my eye was Emilia Wickstead, shown at The Connaught Hotel. She's only been showing at London Fashion Week since 2011, but still managed to combine plaids, florals, and pleats with pristine tailoring. 

This week, I designed and sewed a dress unlike anything I've made before. I usually gather or pleat the bottom half of my dresses, but chose to do an a-line skirt this time. The red piping at the waist and arms brings out the red in the floral print. I lined the sheer, top fabric, combined it with a black twill for the bottom of the dress, and added an invisible zipper on the side.


MADE IN KANSAS 

Paris of the Plains: Fashion Woes

"Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman."

                                                                                       -Coco Chanel

                                                             

Kansas City has been referred to as the "Paris of the Plains" since the 1920s, when journalist Edward Morrow wrote, "If you want to see some sin, forget Paris and head to Kansas City." He was referring to its rebellious spirit and creative culture during the jazz age that resembled the glamourous City of Light. Kansas City is also chock full of boulevards and fountains like Paris and Rome, but unlike the two European cities, its metropolitan area is currently lacking when it comes to fashion sense. Declared the 10th worst dressed city by Travel and Leisure, some Kansas Citians exude more goat couture than haute couture. Baggy sweat pants tucked into your leather boots or Chiefs gear 17 sizes too large just isn't a good look for anyone. Rest assured, we're not alone. Dallas, Phoenix/Scottsdale, Orlando, Anchorage, and five others were declared to be more fashionably challenged than Kansas City.

Christopher Swetala from GQ magazine wrote, "How does a city that fathered its own style of jazz back in the 1930s dress with such little manly swagger? Yeah, you're a laidback town, part of that real America, and sure, eating sauce-covered burnt ends and pork ribs can be messy. But let's grow up." Swetala ended his article with some advice to Kansas City residents, "Hey, we get it: Going out for a pitcher and beef-on-bun doesn't require a jazzy suit, but no matter how you swing it, oversized and billowy ain't cool."

When the time comes to rank the worst dressed cities of 2013, let's cross our fingers in hopes that Travel and Leisure will factor in the hipsters of Lawrence and Crossroads Arts District dwellers when casting their votes. Where the city lacks in style, it does make up for with its unparalleled jazz scene, world famous barbecue, and, most importantly, friendly Midwesterners. Jack Stack anyone? (I'm suddenly craving some cheesy corn bake.)

It is very unusual for me to find an appealing textile at a local Kansas City store, but I did pick up a black and light pink polka dot fabric and pink chiffon to make this versatile dress. It took some time to get the fit just right, but turned out well. I had enough leftover fabric to also make a skirt. My only regret is that I didn't add pockets.

MADE IN KANSAS

Floral Explosion

"Fashion is instant language.”

                                   -Miuccia Prada

French fashion house J. Mendel has been producing luxury clothing of exceptional quality since the 1870s. Gilles Mendel learned the ins and outs of the family business from his father and mentor, Jacques, and now serves as the creative director.

Gilles tossed aside his usual ethereal aesthetic and embraced a darker, more edgy style for J. Mendel's pre-fall 2013 collection. The looks include black leather, fur, and beautifully structured designs. He created prints that were inspired by images of exploding flowers by photographer Ori Gersht that resembled splattered paint.

Each year pre-fall collections fill the void between spring/summer and fall/winter apparel and are available in stores the month of June. “There’s also a sense of exclusivity,” explained Gilles Mendel. “Women come early to get that special piece that might not be in the store in fall.”


I found two paint-splattered printed jersey fabrics and made a top and a skirt. The brightly-colored prints are lively and full of character. I incorporated a black Italian fabric in these two designs to really make the colors pop.


MADE IN KANSAS

Oh Brother, Where Hast Thou Been?

"A good use for me is to let me go away with my sewing machine and come back with some really new stuff."
                                       -Betsey Johnson

A standard home sewing machine has served me well for the past two years, but there always comes a time to try new things. My husband lovingly gave me a Brother serger for Christmas and it is magical. After spending an hour figuring out how to thread the 4 spools, I got to sewing. The feeder zips the fabric through at an amazing speed and finishes the edges to perfection while cutting off excess fabric. It takes away the worry of unravelling threads and works wonders on ultra-thin textiles that my other machine struggled to manage.

I extravagantly purchased some Armani silk (couldn't resist) and silver lining to make a simple top with short sleeves. Silk is one of the trickiest fabrics to work with, but my new serger sewed it with ease. I still have a lot to learn as this top was my first and only project thus far. For those of you that have used a serger before, I'd welcome any helpful tips you could send my way!


MADE IN KANSAS

' Tis the Season for Leather

"People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than motorcycle gangs."

                                                                         -Alexei Sayle    

Among the twinkling lights, garland, and over-eager shoppers, leather is filling up the shops this Christmas season. We see loads of leather pants, skirts, dresses, and jackets each winter, but this year, an abundance of t-shirt and turtleneck designs have been added to the mix. Net-a-porter.com has a variety of leather apparel to choose from. Some of my favorites include this t-shirt by Maison Martin Margiela ($1,690) and turtleneck by Balmain ($2,690.10).

I also adore this high-waisted skirt by Haider Ackermann ($2,362) and cut-out dress by Valentino ($4,900). Absolutely stunning!

I searched everywhere to purchase real leather, but had to settle for faux (PETA would be happy). I bought leather-friendly needles for my sewing machine and made a skirt. Then I designed and sewed an asymmetrical top to go with it and added leather behind the high-collar for stiffness to keep it upright. I bought enough of the faux leather (at the whopping price of $4 a yard) to also make my little boy an Anakin Skywalker costume for Halloween and either a dress or pair of pants for myself in the future. Quite a bargain compared to the extravagant leather designs seen on the runway.

MADE IN KANSAS

A Hobbling They Will Go

"Of course, clothing fashions have always been impractical, except in Tahiti."
                                                         -Jacques Barzun

Fashion and common sense have a tendency to contradict one another (does a certain meat dress ring a bell?). Even in the early 1900s, women were willing to sacrifice their comfort and safety to make a fashion statement with the hobble skirt. According to Webster's Dictionary, the definition of a hobble skirt is as follows:

A hobble skirt (from to hobble = "to limp") is a skirt with a narrow enough hem to significantly impede the wearer's stride, thus earning its name. 

The restrictive garment's popularity increased by 1910, the same year the 100-yard hobble skirt championship of Greater New York (and yes, this really happened) took place. On September 14, 1910, The Milwaukee Sentinel reported on the race, in which Sarah King was crowned hobble skirt champion. "The program announced to wouldbe contestants that 'women desiring to enter who were not equipped with hobble skirts will be hobbled with ropes until they are fully as uncomfortable as if dressed in the height of fashion.' The winner covered the 100 yards with only seven tumbles."

It was incredibly difficult for women to maneuver around cities while taking geisha-like steps in these skirts, which led to countless fashion-related accidents. It soon became apparent that something had to change by way of public transit to accommodate the bound-up women. On March 21, 1912, The Toledo News-Bee published an article titled "Hobble Skirt Wins Lower Car Steps" about the Washington St. Railway Company placing orders for new streetcars that would cater to the impractical trend by making the step up into the car a meager 8 inches from the ground. For obvious reasons, these new streetcars were dubbed "hobble skirt" cars.

In 1913, the Boston Evening Transcript reported that a London fashion expert that had just returned from Paris said, "The skirts I saw in Paris were so tight that the wearers could scarcely walk. The dresses are frightfully ugly." Not long after this article was published, skirt designs started to become a bit more functional. But the question still remains: why would anyone with any sense wear the impeding hobble skirt? Perhaps women of that decade believed it made them more ladylike (apart from the tripping and falling) to make small steps or, just simply, flattering to the figure. Whatever the reason, just as high heels are a girl's best friend, fashion and comfort do not always coincide.

I purchased a black and white checked jersey from Mood and decided to sew a pencil skirt. To prevent it from looking too basic, I wanted to add an eye-catching detail at the waistline. I found a small glass bowl in my kitchen and traced around it to make an interesting design. I had leftover checked jersey, so I also created a top similar to my skirt design.

Fortunately for me, my modern and shortened version of the hobble skirt is a bit easier to walk in than the ones worn by the fashion-forward ladies of the early 1900s.



MADE IN KANSAS