Flapper Fringe and Rocker Rage from New York to Paris

"People will stare. Make it worth their while."

                                          -Harry Winston

Marchesa Fall 2015

New York to London to Milan to Paris. With only a few designers left to debut their fall 2015 collections, fashion week is nearing an end. Some have pulled their inspiration from the 70s, while others were stirred by the Deco skyscrapers of Bryant Park. 

Saint Laurent Fall 2015

Known for their extraordinary dresses and precise attention to detail, Marchesa's Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig looked to F. Scott Fitzgerald for inspiration. Models wore dresses with dropped waists and were draped in beads, feathers, and tiers of fringe that wouldn't be out of place at a 1920s Gatsby party. 

Marchesa gowns are a staple on the red carpet, but Chapman insists that the "runway and red carpet are completely different things" to them. She said, "If someone contacts us and wants to wear one of these dresses on the red carpet, that’s wonderful, but the clothes today are really as ready to go to the Academy Awards this weekend as they are some party in New York." Either way, their dresses next fall will unleash every girl's inner Zelda.

The Saint Laurent show took place yesterday in Paris. Although tulle was present on both Marchesa and Saint Laurent's catwalks, the two collections couldn't have been more different. As a song by The Felines, a girl punk garage band out of Copenhagen, blasted from the speakers, models walked the runway. All of the looks were very rocker chic with ripped tights, biker jackets, and short skirts lined with tulle. Creative Director Hedi Slimane created something special that would make Debbie Harry swoon.

Last week I visited Colorado Fabrics and purchased a faux leather designer textile that came straight from New York. Using my dress form, I draped and cut a new pattern out of muslin. The fabric was a cinch to work with and already had a great backing to it. I added the white waistline with belt loops to break up the blue. It turned out to be a fun dress that can be worn in the spring or fall.

Made in Colorado

The Fanny Pack Attends New York Fashion Week

"I'm not afraid of the fanny pack."

                           -Matthew McConaughey

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2015

The belt bag, hip tote, waist pouch, hands-free satchel, or whatever hipsters want to call the purse that is strapped to their waist ... is still a fanny pack. I used to rock a hot pink one back in the day that was made out of a cheap canvasy-type material. It was perfect for stashing away my gum and lip gloss as an adolescent. Although the fanny pack has been the butt of many jokes, it has slowly been making a comeback the last few years.

Matthew McConaughey, Kate Hudson, and Jared Leto are all fans of the functional bag. "I'm not afraid of the fanny pack," McConaughey said in 2014. "You gotta kinda put it on the side to make it look a little not as nerdy, but still, practicality wins out. I got so much gear in here that I don’t want in my pockets."

Isaac Mizrahi had it right when he said, "You either love them and make them part of your life or you fight them until the end." The designer has not sent one down the runway since the 1992. Only two years before that, an episode of Seinfeld aired where Jerry poked fun at George Costanza's fanny pack by telling him that it "looks like your belt is digesting a small animal."

Rag & Bone Fall 2015

Isaac may not be showcasing the belt bag anymore, but other designers are. At the fall 2015 Marc by Marc Jacobs show this week, the majority of the models walking down the runway were sporting fanny packs. Some were black and some were colorful, but they all had a boxy shape and a hip vibe to them with plenty of room for essentials. Other brands to proudly include the fanny pack in their fall 2015 collections are Rag & Bone and Moschino.

Compared to the neon pink fanny pack that my mom most likely picked up as a freebie at one of my dad's meetings back in the 90s, the new and improved "belt bags" come with a steeper price tag. Net-a-porter.com currently has a calf hair and leather one by Newbark listed for $1,050. There is no doubt that the modern day fanny pack is much more sophisticated than its predecessors. If you're brave enough to make the switch from handbag to belt bag, your aching shoulders will thank you. Even if like Costanza, your friends never let you live it down.

In honor of fashion week, I made a mini collection comprised of three looks. I purchased a wool herringbone textile and used it to construct a dress and skirt. To make the fabric a bit edgier, I sewed down strips of thin black cord. The blue and white top with the zipper down the front is pieced together from fabric scraps I had lying around and is paired with a skirt I made several months ago. The white top is made out of a stretch denim. I added a closure at the neckline with three buttons and made half glove-cuffs to wear with it. It was fun to make and coordinate these three looks. I told my husband that next I would be making a fanny pack for myself. He looked at me like I was certifiably insane. I think the glove-cuffs had already done him in.

 Made in Colorado

Velvet Underground

"I would drape myself in velvet if it were socially acceptable."

                                                                -George Costanza (Seinfeld, "The Label Maker" episode)

Saint Laurent Fall 2014

Hapless Seinfeld character George Costanza is a man of simple pleasures. All he wants out of life is a free meal, a private bathroom, and to be covered head to toe in the most unlikely of materials, velvet. It is not only the Costanzas of the world who favor the buttery soft fabric, but also royalty. Queen Elizabeth wore a 21 foot long violet, velvet train for her coronation in 1953. It took 12 embroiderers, 18 types of gold thread, and 3,500 hours to complete. It was truly fit for a queen. 

Saint Laurent's Velvet Cape (Fall 2014)

Designers are going gaga for velvet this season and using it in a chic and modern way. Emilio de la Morena paid homage to his Spanish roots and incorporated colorful shades of velvet combined with ruffles and ruching. It was a series of amazing cocktail dresses that any women would want. My absolute favorite velvet pieces this fall/winter came from Saint Laurent. All of the dresses and coats were impeccably done. Earlier this month, Angelina Jolie draped herself in Saint Laurent's black velvet cape. It could be hanging in your closet for the princely sum of $3,190.

The festive fabric is the perfect choice this Christmas as it conveys a sense of richness, royalty, and warmth. "Velvet has jewel-tone colors and a rich, luxe touch,” said Vogue.com Market Editor Chelsea Zalopany. “The luster of the material gives a touch of seasonal flair during the holidays, like the velvet bows at the recent Chanel pre-fall show." 

Following a recent trip to my local fabric shop in search of the perfect stretch velvet, I came home and began constructing a pair of pants. After finishing them, I had enough left over to make a top. Inspired by old diamond paned windows, I incorporated lace and created velvet strips for the panes. After thinking about how the modern jumpsuit is overtaking the LBD, I decided to turn my separates into a one piece. After painstakingly ripping out the zippers and shortening the top, the two pieces attached together with ease. 

I also made a top using an old go-to fabric. This time I positioned the stripes horizontally and sewed black strips down the front and on the sleeves to change the direction of the wool and give it a unique texture. 

These two looks will be perfect for sipping eggnog this Christmas and ringing in the new year!

Made in Colorado

Leather Up

"If I could dress anyone, I'd like to dress the Queen - she can handle anything. I'd put her in black - she never wears black - and add a little leather, maybe. A little rock n' roll."

                                                                      -Donatella Versace

Each fall and winter, leather hits the streets and every fashion magazine proclaims it to be THE trend of the season. It's no surprise that this "trend" never fades.

Made famous by rebel rousers James Dean, Marlon Brando, and The Fonz, leather jackets gained popularity in the 40s and 50s as actors wore them on the big screen. Although they didn't outfit the masses until the later-half of the 20th century, leather jackets were worn by aviators and military men in the early and mid 1900s. They strategically chose leather for the "bomber jacket" to protect pilots from extreme weather conditions while cruising at high altitudes and often incorporated fleece for added warmth.

Gucci Fall 2014

On November 26, 1967, The Observer published an article that began with, "Leather and suede used to be thought of as typical point-to-point gear for middle-aged, middle-class women." Describing current leather as "smarter, younger and cheaper" than in previous years, it went on to say, "This year's leather look is brisk battledress, sinister SS, or early aviator: coats are worn with high leather boots and gauntlet gloves."

A few years later, Debbie Harry casually posed on the beach wearing a leather vest. Then in 1974, Punk magazine founder Legs McNeil reacted to The Ramones' dress choice, "They were all wearing these black leather jackets…They looked so striking. These guys were not hippies. This was something completely new.”

Just like in years past, leather is abundant. From Paris to New York, everyone from Kate Moss to Gwyneth Paltrow is roaming the streets in leather leggings, jackets, tops, skirts, and dresses.  The edgy textile is not limited to black/brown or fall/winter these days. It is seen in all colors of the rainbow and even on spring dresses. A little something for everyone.

Apart from a pair of pants or a jacket here and there, my leather purchases have mostly consisted of shoes, handbags, and belts. A fabric shop that I recently discovered nearby sells hides. I purchased a black one for the bargain price of $30 and had enough to incorporate it into three designs: a dress, a skirt, and a top.

This week, I paired the leather with a novelty wool to make a skirt. The way I patterned the piece makes it wearable two ways: either with the zip in the back or on the side. I also made a blue top and added leather at the neckline with three buttons. For a price like that, you can't go wrong.


Made in Colorado

A Haute Halloween

"No matter how many modern parts I do, people still refer to me as Mrs. Costume Drama."

                                                                    -Helena Bonham Carter

Commes des Garçons Spring 2015

Halloween is lurking around the corner and couture costume ideas are aplenty. From Marie Antoinette to a twenties flapper to Marilyn Monroe, there are numerous options for the fashion-conscious. Heidi Klum is the master of creative costumes. Over the years, she has transformed herself into Cleopatra, Lady Godiva, a crow, and a plethora of other extravagant characters. When it comes to Halloween festivities, she spares no expense.

The New York Times posted an article this week on their fashion and style page about Halloween costumes inspired by high fashion. My favorite look shown on their Pinterest board is an extraordinary red hooded cape that graced the runways at the recent Comme des Garçons spring 2015 show. Little Red Riding Hood, eat your heart out.

If you prefer an understated Halloween ensemble, there are many ways to pull together a chic look while avoiding an actual costume. I was recently perusing online retailers and found some great pieces that embrace the spirit of Halloween without being too literal. One of them is Alexander McQueen's black hooded cape sold on net-a-porter.com. It is a great statement piece that can be worn past October 31st without looking gimmicky (if I had a spare $2,695 lying around, I would snap it up).

Another combination for the costume-shy is Michael Kors' black stretch-wool and silk-georgette gown paired with Bottega Veneta suede pumps. It screams dark and mysterious and wouldn't be out of place on Mrs. Count Dracula. My favorite Haloween-esque couture design is a skirt by Oscar de la Renta. I can just imagine Lily Munster wearing it while at a gala with Herman by her side.

Over the past few days, I have been on a sewing binge and designed a dress, a striped top, and a cape. I used a polka-dot wool boucle and added a bit of leather to make a dress. It was the first time I have ever bought a real leather hide and I could easily become obsessed. It was easy to work with, blended well with the wool fabric, and does not fray.

I also used the polka-dot fabric and combined it with a black camel's wool to create a cape. Then I layered it over the striped top and paired it with some pants that I made last year. The best part about these separates is that they are all interchangeable for mixing and matching. You won't see me dressed as a vampire this Halloween, but I will be donning a cape.

Made in Colorado

From Pinball Games to Woodstock: Inspiration for Spring 2015 Collections

"I want to empower women. I want people to be afraid of the women I dress."
                                                    -Alexander McQueen

Marchesa Spring 2015 RTW

Givenchy Spring 2015 RTW

At London fashion week, the design duo for Marchesa, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, celebrated the label's ten year anniversary at their spring 2015 ready-to-wear show. Chapman and Craig wanted to honor British icons. Fittingly, Georgia May Jagger, daughter of The Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger, was the first to grace the catwalk. “She really embodies the spirit of the new collection,” said Chapman. “It’s a little bit gypsy, a little bit Woodstock and a little bit rock ’n’ roll.” Marchesa is known for their feminine chiffon dresses adorned with flowers and ruffles. Although inspired by the late sixties, this collection was still full of romanticism that Marchesa is known for.


In contrast, the late Alexander McQueen liked to explore the dark side when designing clothing and had a theatrical flare. Creative director Sarah Burton looked to McQueen's love of kimonos for her inspiration this season. She incorporated exaggerated chrysanthemum prints on pretty dresses and paired them with gladiator sandals. Apart from the disturbing face masks, this collection was astonishing from start to finish.

In Paris this week, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy turned out a truly amazing spring collection. The styling was nothing less than perfect with black over-the-knee boots and free-flowing, boho-esque locks. When asked what his inspiration for the collection was, Tisci replied, “Flipper—the old computer pinball game—the black-and-white graphics.” How can you go wrong with lace, leather, riding coats, and pinball?

This week I wanted to make a complete look that would be fitting for the ever-changing day-to-day autumn weather. Using a Rag & Bone cotton woven fabric, I sewed a dress with a playful silhouette and included cap sleeves. Then looking to the Seargent Pepper suits worn by The Beatles as inspiration, I designed a lined coat using a Marc Jacobs wool blend tweed. Beatles biographer Jonathan Gould wrote that the Sgt. Pepper costumes "spoofed the vogue in Britain for military fashions." My coat is not as military-inspired or outlandish as the ones worn by John, Paul, Ringo, and George, but it is brightly colored, knee-length, has an exaggerated mandarin collar, and is fitted with a slight flare at the bottom. Puts me in the mood for "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds."

Made in Colorado