Cape Fear

"This ensemble has a cape made of tufted coffin lining in a lovely shade of cemetery grey. This little number was very inexpensive. The fabric is made of black widows webs, and the underslip, pure unborn centipede."

                                                                  -Lily Munster

Vampires and superheroes aren't the only ones donning capes this week. Fashionistas around the world are embracing the whimsical accessory that can make you feel mysterious, powerful, or part of a fairytale. Capes, popular for both costumes and everyday wear, have been around for centuries and continue to be a great accompaniment to any fall wardrobe.

Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, and Paul McCartney gravitated towards the versatile outerwear. Hepburn wore a beautiful floor-sweeping blue cape in the movie Funny Face that was designed by Hubert de Givenchy. Once she had been draped in one of Givenchy's exquisite designs, she could never go back. “His are the only clothes in which I am myself,” she told reporters in 1956.

Jackie O selected an elegant white cape for her husband's inaugural ball in 1961. Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Goodman created both the gown and the cape.

Capes can be dramatic or subtle and made out of anything and everything from organza to fur. Who wouldn't want to own an accessory that Red Riding Hood, Dracula, Superman, and the Queen of England can pull off?

My sons both opted to be superheroes this year for Halloween and lo and behold, they will be sporting capes. Having never owned one myself, I decided to make a cape using an exceptionally soft Marc Jacobs wool that I purchased from Mood. Not wanting my arms completely confined, I added openings adorned with zippers on both sides and a zipper up the middle. It was surprisingly easy to make. I learned how to insert the zippers within the garment via a YouTube how to video. I also found time to make a pair of pleated, tapered black pants and a red top with lace accents. Cheers to the cape!


MADE IN KANSAS

Parting is Such Sweet Sorrow: Jacobs Says Farewell to Louis Vuitton

"You say goodbye and I say hello. Hello, hello. I don't know why you say goodbye, I say hello."

                                                                         -The Beatles

Louis Vuitton Spring 2014

We bid adieu to Paris Fashion Week today just as Marc Jacobs says au revoir to Louis Vuitton. After 16 years of rebuilding the Parisian fashion house, the former LV creative director is packing his bags and heading back to New York where he can focus on his own brand. His final show earlier today took place in the Cour Carrée du Louvre tent where he commemorated his history with LV by creating a magnificent set that included elements from previous shows: a carousel, fountain, pair of escalators, and a grand hotel elevator. 

Valentino Spring 2014

The theme was all about showgirls. “The first thing I thought was about Esther Williams and synchronized swimming,” Jacobs said. “But then I decided I wanted to do something about black, sparkling black, and texture and night!” Feathered headpieces and beaded detailing gave drama to Jacobs's exit collection. And aside from a few pairs of blue jeans, the only color on the models was black. Being his last LV collection, is it a coincidence that he chose the color associated with mourning? He also included the LV graffiti from past handbags, with those three little words, "I love Paris". Jacobs summed up his collection by saying, "It was an ode to Paris and to all the people I have been involved and work with. This city has been so great." After hearing the news of Jacobs's departure, the real question is, what's next for Louis Vuitton? It is rumored that a new creative director will be named by late October. The show must go on!

Chanel Spring 2014

What Louis Vuitton was lacking in color, Valentino and Chanel made up for. Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli gained inspiration from opera. Their designs were full of vibrant hues and gold accessories that complemented the color palette. Karl Lagerfeld's new collection for Chanel was a tribute to art, although when addressing the topic, Lagerfeld said, "I’m collecting books. I have no space for art.” The Grand Palais was transformed into a pseudo gallery with artwork lining the walls. The wearable designs were full of life and Lagerfeld included bright tweeds that will shine next spring. "Life is not a red carpet," Karl explained. "This is for daily life. I wanted color, and a fraîcheur. It’s a very happy mood."



This week I have been sewing my heart out. In fact, there are horrific screeching sounds coming from my serger that are probably a result of overuse. I made a long-sleeved striped cotton tee, cotton sateen black pants, a fully lined zip-up jacket out of an Italian fabric, and a graphite colored dress with cap sleeves. Pants are not my forté, so they were a challenge and the jacket was my biggest accomplishment thus far. It took me quite some time to figure out how to properly line the jacket while also installing a zipper up the front.

The dress was a fairly simple design, so I wanted to add interesting belt loops. The only fabric I had to work with at that point were two scraps that were cut into cap sleeves. I added white trim so they would stand out, attached them to the dress, and voilà!

MADE IN KANSAS

Charming Prints Light up the Runways

"Fashion week is about celebrating the industry we’re in and gathering friends and industry people together."

                                                                         -Alice Temperley

Temperley London Spring 2014

Pretty prints, feminine silhouettes, and all colors of the rainbow have been on display this month in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. It's no surprise that the dresses from Temperley London were ultra-feminine and full of charm. Alice Temperley is an expert at designing pretty clothes for women. Season after season, she puts on a good show.

Talbot Runhof Spring 2014

One designer that experimented with a new look is Victoria Beckham. She strayed from her usual militant and office-ready design aesthetic by adding an all around lighter feel to her spring 2014 collection. The pieces are still minimalistic, but with less buttoned-up stiffness. She also embraced the concept of layering, which is perfect for the changing seasons. “It’s just me,” Beckham said when referring to her new designs. “It’s everything I want to wear!”

Another collection full of girlish silhouettes and clever prints was Talbot Runhof's. Comprised of Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof, this Munich-based design team is mostly known for its red carpet looks. For spring 2014, the two designers pulled inspiration from Barbra Streisand. There was a lot of emphasis on geometric prints and some looks featured built-in capes. Who doesn't want to feel like a superhero?

This week I constructed a top using a Marc Jacobs polka dot cotton voile. The print is very retro chic, so I added a peter pan collar to make it reminiscent of a past decade. I also purchased a black suiting fabric made of rayon, wool, and lycra for an a-line skirt to complement the top.


MADE IN KANSAS

The Three Ms: Michael Kors, Marchesa, and Marc Jacobs

"I am the oldest young designer in New York City."

                                  -Michael Kors

It was a hot day in New York yesterday, but that didn't slow down fashion enthusiasts flocking to the city. The spring 2014 designs seen at the Michael Kors show mid-morning were reminiscent of clothing worn in the 1940s. Not only did the prints give a nod to the decade, but so did the silhouettes. Wartime in the 40s led to fabric rationing, which greatly impacted clothing production. Dress lengths were raised and clothing was worn closer to the body to save on yardage. To give his designs that 40s flare, Kors kept some hemlines just below the knee and waistlines above the belly button (think 40s swimwear). "Michael Kors has gone romantic!" said Kors when referring to his latest collection to walk the runway. “It’s that forties versus seventies moment!” Loving all things retro, Kors's collection blew me away.

Later in the day, models geared up to walk at the Marchesa show. "It was this idea of curiosity cases, full of birds and butterflies," said Marchesa co-founder Georgina Chapman. As always, the dresses were extravagant, romantic, and full of exquisite detailing that would highlight any woman's femininity. Often worn by celebrities on the red carpet, designs by Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig (who happened to meet at Chelsea College of Art and Design in London) are inspired by the Italian heiress Marchesa Luisa Casati. If I had the financial backing, I would don a Marchesa dress every day of the year.

Tonight marked the end of New York Fashion Week and for the grand finale, cue . . . Marc Jacobs. Always beating to his own drum, Jacobs's new spring collection is very dark. As Marc Jacobsites fanned themselves while they waited patiently for the show to begin, a creepy soundtrack worthy of a Tim Burton film slinked through the speakers. Out walked, or rather speed-walked, the models down the winding runway. Floor length black lace dresses with a hint of sparkle, board shorts paired with military-inspired jackets, and a print you'd likely see on a floral Hawaiian muumuu were all on the agenda. Only Jacobs can take all that hodgepodge, pair it with the ugliest shoes you've ever seen, and somehow make the most wildly absurd combinations seem hip. Sometimes I think it's a little joke he's playing on the world. 

The runways are focused on spring again, but I'm gearing up for fall. I recently purchased the mother load of fall and winter fabrics and have them piled high in my closet waiting to be sewn into something grand. I love autumn because there are so many pairing options. It's always fun to mix and match summer and winter clothes for a new look. I purchased a Carolina Herrera textured brocade and sewed it up into a skirt. Then I striped a black stretch charmeuse with a black lace for a top. Here's to a new season!

MADE IN KANSAS

Cut it Out

"The woman is the most perfect doll that I have dressed with delight and admiration."

                                                           -Karl Lagerfeld

Another September, another fashion week. Models have begun to walk the runways of New York sporting fresh spring/summer 2014 designs. One trend that seems to be holding strong from 2013 collections is cut outs. Here are three of my favorite dresses with the cut out or peekaboo design element from this summer, made by Stella McCartney, Versace, and Cushnie Et Ochs. 

Another trend that seems to be sticking for next spring is black and white ensembles. Rather than the candy-coated pastels we saw back in 2012, the first designers to show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week have focused on the contrasting hues. The following new designs for spring/summer 2014 are by rag & bone, Helmut Lang, and Jason Wu.

 

I made a dress using a retro floral cotton fabric and paired it with a black fabric. The airiness of the sheer peekaboos at the waist is perfect for those hot summer days. After selecting a slinky black jersey and Anna Sui floral lace from Mood Fabrics, I sewed another dress with peekaboo detailing.

It's always fun to see repeat trends from a past season recreated in a new, innovative way, but let's hope the upcoming shows at fashion week have a few surprises for us as well.


MADE IN KANSAS

Perfection in Paris: Haute Couture Fall 2013

"In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different."

                                              -Coco Chanel

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture

There was a little something for everyone in Paris last week at the fall 2013 haute couture shows. Giambattista Valli proved once again that he is an artisan when it comes to manipulating flowers. He was thinking of "porcelain goddesses" while crafting fragile and delicate masterpieces reminiscent of vintage Christian Dior gowns. Fittingly, the runway was lined with statues adorned with white hydrangeas, adding to the romanticism of the dresses. 

Valentino Haute Couture

In contrast to Valli's light and airy designs, Valentino displayed fall colors and heavier textiles. Many of the looks were, surprisingly, wearable for day-to-day affairs. The quote, "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication," by Leonardo da Vinci inspired the design process. Clients seeking custom, haute couture clothing also desire originality and that is why wunderkammer came into play. The German word means a place where a collection of curiosities and rarities is exhibited. "In a cabinet of curiosities, the pieces are very unique, very one-of-a-kind," said Valentino Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli. "We've tried to make something that is not only special, but also surprising, unexpected."

Chanel Haute Couture

Karl Lagerfeld's futuristic haute couture collection for Chanel debuted at the spectacular Grand Palais with a dramatic set that was both creepy and brilliant. "On the way from the Old World to the New World," was Lagerfeld's summation of his grand show. "And fashion is the only way to make the trip." He based the looks on "tradition with future." There were design details that resembled past eras, but also a nod to what's next. He completed each look with a wide belt. That sealed the deal for me.

Couture week in Paris always inspires pushing the limits of fashion and creativity. I have been wanting to experiment and create different silhouettes. This week, I put aside my go-to black fabric and chose a bold, colorful print on a stiffer textile from Mood. I wanted to create a structured dress with box-like cap sleeves. Through trial and error manipulating the fabric, I finally got the sleeves just right. As the old proverb goes, "If at first you don't succeed, try, try, try again."

MADE IN KANSAS