Plaid

“Style is primarily a matter of instinct."
                                             - Bill Blass

Bust out the bagpipes. Plaid, also referred to as tartan, was adopted as the symbolic national dress of Scotland in the 1700s. Although it is mostly associated with Scotland, it is a pattern staple in the fashion world and seen on everything from socks to wool coats. Burberry, a luxury British fashion house, has become famous for its timeless trench coats and signature plaid. Making its debut at fashion week, the beloved pattern will be a major trend for menswear in 2012. Marc Jacobs has embraced eye-catching plaids in his upcoming collection while Gucci has perfected the plaid suit for spring/summer 2012. Then there is David Hart, a tie master in New York City, who makes handcrafted plaid ties that are truly inspiring to look at.

I purchased a wool blend boucle fabric online without ordering a swatch first. When it arrived in the mail, the plaid was more striking in person than I could have imagined. I'm happy with the end result, but the process of making the skirt was challenging at times. The edges unraveled at a rapid speed and I almost sewed my finger off at one point! All that aside, I love the skirt and if I get tired of it, I can use it for a game of checkers.

MADE IN KANSAS

Luxe Meets Practical

“Design is a constant challenge to balance comfort with luxe, the practical with the desirable."
                                                                           - Donna Karan

From dollar bin t-shirts to avant-garde fashion masterpieces, the clothing industry is full of extremes. Mass-produced clothes with little to no design elements exemplify the definition of shoddy workmanship and will most likely develop a hole after one or two wash cycles (you know what I'm referring to!). I once bought a sweater from a street vendor at Notting Hill's famous Portobello Market in West London. I wore it once and tossed it into the washing machine like the label told me to do. When I retrieved it, it had literally disintegrated into pieces. The lack of quality construction was appalling.

The other extremes are haute couture and avant-garde. Haute couture is clothing of the highest caliber. It is custom made for a specific customer using only the finest fabric and often has hand-sewn elements. In the fashion world, the term avant-garde means an innovative creation that pushes the boundaries and has never been done before. It is often a radical fashion statement with an over-the-top design. Think Lady Gaga. These garments are exquisitely made and mesmerizing to look at coming down the runway, but not sensible for everyday wear.

There is a middle ground where luxe can be practical without being boring. Many designers including Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karan have built their fashion empires by creating clothing that is comfortable and appealing. I ordered a stunning printed fabric and it just arrived in the mail this week. I thought it would be more versatile to make separates instead of a dress, yet still pass as a dress when worn together. I added a high collar to give the top an interesting and modern vibe.

The Perfect Textile

“The finest clothing made is a person's skin, but, of course, society demands something more than this."                  

                                                                             - Mark Twain

One of the most exciting parts of creating a new garment is finding the perfect textile and figuring out how to transform it into something spectacular. Textiles are made from fibres that range from organic and natural to synthetic. Local fabric shops are great for buying thread, zippers, or the occasional yard or two of fabric, but, at least in Kansas, their apparel textiles are sparse. I buy the majority of my fabric from Mood Designer Fabrics located in New York City's garment district. They have an amazing online selection and give customers the option to order swatches before making an “all sales final" purchase.

Jersey Blend Fabric

I bought this beautiful ruffled charcoal and black jersey from Mood. My initial thought was to run the ruffles horizontally, but then I had the idea to drape them vertically. It made a world of difference to simply rotate the fabric, which then gave the top a textured look. I paired it with a simple black skirt that I made this week.

Simply Lace

"Fashion comes from a dream, and the dream is an escape from reality."

                                                                -Christian Dior

Once used in the Catholic Church for religious ceremonies, lace is now seen on apparel, lingerie, and even shoes. There is a feeling of ultimate femininity when wearing a beautifully sewn lace dress. Its delicate features and intricacies keep designers interested and coming back for more. Dior, Chanel, Betsey Johnson, and Dolce and Gabbana, to name just a few, have all featured lace on the runway. 

I decided on a simple silhouette when making this dress because the lace speaks for itself. The lining is shorter than the bottom of the dress to give it an airy feel. Surprisingly, the lace was a delight to work with.

 

Little Black Dress

“Fashion has two purposes: comfort and love. Beauty comes when fashion succeeds.”

                                                         - Coco Chanel

In 1926, Coco Chanel transformed a color that was associated with mourning into a chic little dress. American Vogue called it “Chanel's Ford." It was sophisticated and timeless. There have been many adaptations to Chanel's charming black dress and they have become staples in every fashionista's wardrobe.

While watching Project Runway last week, I saw how one of the designers cut their fabric to create a circle skirt. I wanted to try out the technique, so I decided to create my own version of Chanel's little black dress.  I worked diligently for hours and was amazed with the end result. Never underestimate the little black dress.

Houndstooth

Houndstooth has been used for apparel throughout many decades and made popular by fashion icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Jacqueline Kennedy. It originated in Scotland as did many other eye catching patterns. The most widely used houndstooth is black and white, but there are numerous color variations. I love houndstooth for apparel because it can look fun and edgy, but still classic. I made a top and skirt this week out of two very different textiles, but with the same houndstooth color scheme. I paired the skirt with a top I made this summer. 

Top: Ponteroma Knit with
Exaggerated Houndstooth  Print

Top: Striped Cotton Jersey
Skirt: Houndstooth Woven Wool